Updates
	I installed an angle of attack indicator that you can make yourself for about $60 http://www.snyder.on.ca/pages/lri.htm  For the probe i just used 1/4" aluminum tube rather than trying to drill out a long bar. It works great once you get it calibrated and is a great back up to my electric airspeed indicator .   12/16/02
	My Sonex turned out a little left wing heavy so I added a ground adjustable trim tab to the right aileron.  12/16/02
	My Jabiru 3300 puts out a lot of torque and I need to add a trim tab to the rudder to straighten things out.   12/16/02
	I recently received the canopy cover I ordered from Bruce's Custom Covers. For $255 it is a heavy duty cover and it will be perfect for when I need to leave my sonex outside over night at a fly-in or on a cross-country trip. Inside my hangar, though, I just throw an old bed sheet over the canopy to keep off the dust and such. 12/16/02
	On my trip back from Minneapolis I ran into a problem with my oil filter. As you can see in this picture the filter cracked right along the spot welds that hold on the cap. This is a K&N 1003 Filter. Needless to say I am no longer using this brand of filter.   12/16/02
	You can read more about this misadventure in an article I wrote on page six of our Chapter 33 newsletter you will need Adobe Acrobat to read this file. On page one there is an article about the aerospace physiology training class several of my chapter mates and I took at Offutt AFB.  12/16/02
	Here is the oil cooler take off plate I used on my Jabiru. The stock plate was tapped for 1/8" NTP fittings. Some of the Sonex guys are tapping those out to 1/4" NTP fittings. However, the tap was breaking through the sides of the plate when I tried to tap mine out. This plate comes threaded for 3/8" NTP which work nicely with 1/2" Aeroquip hose.  12/16/02
	I started out with the B&M oil cooler Sonex LTD. recommends but my oil temps were running way to hot. I switched to a Earl's oil cooler and was able to get the temps down some what. I was running air from two Van's NACA inlets to the cooler and was exiting air inside the cowl.   12/16/02
	Even with the Earl's cooler my temps were running hotter than I would prefer in long climbs and and at high speed cruse. I switched to a Positech oil cooler and I am exiting the air to outside the cowl. Even with just one NACA inlet my temps are running cooler than my previous setup.   12/16/02
	It is getting crowded under the cowl and running lines and hoses is tricky. The air to the oil cooler comes in one NACA inlet and goes through the oil cooler and out the bottom. I have also rearranged the cabin heat air. It comes in another NACA inlet, through a heat muff around the muffler, to the cabin heat switch box and then if the air does not get switched into the cabin it gets dumped into the oil cooler exit.   12/16/02
	Here you can see the oil cooler exit as it goes through the bottom of the cowl. Notice the SCAT tube dumping the excess cabin heat air.  You can also see that I added an aluminum sheet to the bottom of the cowl to keep the exhaust from warping the fiberglass. 12/16/02
	I has a problem with my #1 cyl. The head overheated and the exhaust valve was sticking. I pulled the head and the Jabiru guys rebuit it for me. I then modified the defector I had made at the front of the cylinder to lower it and let more air onto the exhaust side of the head. 7/16/06
	Here is how I rpeheat my engine. The jabiru does not like to start when it is cold.. 7/16/06
	Here is my 3" NACA inlet I made to get more air to my oil cooler. 7/16/06
	Here is an inside view of the inlet. The Vans 2" NACA inlets are starting to crack and I would not use them again on the cowl. They just don't stand upto the heat. 7/16/06
	Here is the new fiberglass inlet I made to smooth out the flow to the oil cooler. My oil temps are running fine now as long as I don't keep too much oil in the engine. I run the oil level right at the lower mark on the dip stick. Any higher and the oil overheats and kicks it out the breather. 7/16/06
	I goofed up and made the hinge pin on the top of the cowl a little too long. It moved forward and scored the back of the prop. I send the prop back to Sensenich. They repaired, refinished and rebalanced it for $100.  Not a bad deal. 7/16/06
	I added a push rod to the fule shut-off so it would be easier to work without taking off my sholder harrness. 7/16/06
	I also added a angle extension to the shut-off lever to get the leverage right.. 7/16/06
	The push rod comes out right next to my mixture control and works the same way. Push-ON, Pull-OFF. Now I need to update my label. 7/16/06
	I added a turn buckle to the brake system so I could adjust the tension on the brakes. I also move the attach point on the brake lever up 2" to give me better brake control. Also don't forget to safety wire the turn buckle. 7/16/06
	I found the oil was over flowing out of my oil-air seprator so I added a black tube to the outlet and ran it down the gear leg. 7/16/06
	And out near the brake. Now excess oil is vented out into the air rather than all over  the inside of my cowl. 7/16/06

	CAUTION: This web site is in no way a publication of Sonex, Ltd. or any other corporation. All products mentioned are not necessarily recommended for use, but are included for informational purposes only. Builders tips and instructions are not meant to replace the plans and instructions from Sonex, Ltd.. All Builder's tips and instructions are presented only as a source of information and a forum for exchange and the sharing of ideas and construction methods. NO responsibility or liability is assumed, expressed, or implied as to the suitability, accuracy, safety, or approval thereof. Any party using the suggestions, ideas, instructions or examples on these pages, does so at their own risk and discretion and without recourse against anyone.
	All content Copyright © 1999-2006 David Koelzer. All rights reserved.
	Sonextm is a registered trademark of Sonex Ltd.
	Webspace provided by WheelsUp.org