Here you can see the adjuster strip that connects the pedals to the rudder cables. I had to make mine a little longer than called for in the plans. I used the Sonex pre-swedged rudder cables. They are quite nice. 8/27/00
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Here are the rudder pedals installed. I had to sand out the pivot holes in the phenolic blocks so that the pedals would swing freely. I also had to chamfer on side of the hole so that it would clear the weld on the pedals. 8/27/00 |
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Here you can see the adjuster strip that connects the pedals to the rudder cables. I had to make mine a little longer than called for in the plans. I used the Sonex pre-swedged rudder cables. They are quite nice. 8/27/00 |
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You can see I did my springs a little differently that called for in the plans. I used a 3" spring I found at my local hardware store. One end attaches to the upright angle the other replaces the cotter pin in the bolt holding the cable. 8/27/00 |
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This is where the other end of the cable attaches to the rudder horn. I had to open up the exit holes a little so the cable would not rub on the fuselage side skin. 8/27/00 |
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The last step was to connect in the tail wheel steering push rod. 8/27/00 |
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Here I am installing the flap torque tube. Again I had to sand out the phenolic blocks and chamfer one of the edges so that every thing would pivot freely. 8/27/00 |
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I found a little problem with where I placed the NACA vent. The hose that comes off the back with be very close to the flap handle. I should have installed the vent higher and a little farther forward. 8/27/00 |
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The brake handle seems to be all right and does not interfere with the vent. I might have to bend the flap handle a few more degrees. 8/27/00 |
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Here is the control yoke for the dual sticks. I spent a lot of time working the bronze bushing so that every thing moved freely but without any play. 8/27/00 |
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Here is the elevator rush rod idler. I had to open up the hole in the rear spar carry-through to clear the push rod. 8/27/00 |
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Here is the trim tab installed and hinge pin safety wired in place. I also installed the hinge pins in the elevator and rudder and cotter pinned them in place. 8/27/00 |
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Here I am logging some more hangar flying time. I bought two carved teak stick grips. They feel great and are left unvarnished so that the wood will absorb sweat from your palm. I got them with a push to talk switch. 8/16/00 |
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Here you can see how I am using the water bottle cages I installed. It is holding a Nissan vacuum bottle with a flip top spout. 8/16/00 |
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These are the aileron and flap pushrods with the ball rod ends installed. I used a die to clean the powder coating off the threads. 8/16/00 |
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Here is the aileron belcrank with the push rods installed. 8/16/00 |
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Here is the ball rod end attached to the aileron as viewed from below. I usually like to install the cotter pin as soon as I tighten a bolt but I have not installed the cotter pins yet because I know I will need to adjust things later on. 8/16/00 |
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Here I am making a initial adjustment to the ailerons. The first step was to center the stick. I am using my framing square to hold the stick in the center. 10/15/00 |
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Next step was to set the aileron center point. The plans call for setting a straight edge along the top surface of the aileron and then measuring the distance above the airfoil at the spar. 10/15/00 |
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Here is the view from behind. To be centered the straight edge should be 2 29/32" above the spar. 10/15/00 |
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Here is what I am trying instead of a manual flap handle. It is an electric ball screw actuator. It is good for 100 lbs. of force, uses about 3 amps while in motion and weighs about 1.3 lbs. The actuator is free-wheeling at the ends so there is no need for limit switches. All that is need is a double pole, double throw, center off momentary switch to raise and lower the flaps. 12/15/00 |
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I got the actuator from Motion Systems Corporation . It is model #85615, 12 volt, 6" stroke, 15:1 reduction, ball rod end, and the pivot hole drilled 90° to the gearbox. Don't tell them it is for an aircraft. I said it was for a three wheeled, off-road vehicle. 8^) It cost me about $230. 12/15/00 |
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The gear box pivot will ride on a clevis bolt suspended between the fuselage side and a support shown here. 12/15/00 |
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Here is a close up of the support which will get bolted to the vertical angle. 10/15/00 |
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Here is the ball rod end bolted to the lever arm. I discovered one problem using the rod end. As the actuator extends and retracts it tends to torque the rod end slightly and can even unscrew the rod end if the stop nut is not tight. I am looking at a way to safety wire the rod end so there is no chance of it coming off. 10/15/00 |
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Here you can see how I safety-wired the ball end. I drilled a 1/16" hole through the arm and the threaded part of the rod end and then inserted safety-wire through the hole. 6/10/01 |
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